tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14570430996274606612024-03-19T03:38:40.713-07:00Cabinet Refacing ToolsHerrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-13766178538990360922017-07-23T15:43:00.010-07:002023-08-08T09:09:58.952-07:00Welcome To A WebsiteThat Is Long Overdue...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">By: Herrick Kimball</span></div>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Dateline: 8 January 2019</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Updated: 8 August 2023</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">It has been 20 years since I wrote the above book for <i>The Taunton Press</i>. They are still selling it, but I can tell from my quarterly royalty statements, that it is not selling like it once did. Not hardly. I won’t be surprised if it goes out of print soon.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The good news is that when this now-classic cabinet refacing manual is no longer in print, used copies will be available for years to come. I say it’s good news because even after two decades, just about everything I teach about cabinet refacing in that book is still 100% accurate and applicable for doing a remarkably good job of refacing kitchen cabinets.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span><br />
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The only thing I see that’s out of date in the book is me. My hair is now noticeably gray (and I have a beard). Other than that, the refacing Resources at the back of the book could, admittedly, use some updating. But all the how-to details for sizing doors, and veneer-wrapping<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>old face frames have not changed. <span style="color: red;">You simply will not find better instructions for this high-end refacing technique anywhere else.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Veneer-wrapping of face frames results in a finished look that is as good as it gets. And if the veneer is applied as I explain in the book, there will never be any problems. I can say that with total assurance because the kitchen I refaced for the book is my own, and after 20 years, not one square centimeter of veneer has come loose. The spring hinges on the doors have lost their springs. A lazy Susan shelf is broken. One drawer slide no longer works smoothly. But the oak-veneered face frames are still in great shape.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I was 39 years old when I wrote <i>Refacing Cabinets</i>. I had worked in the building trades for 20 years. Ten of those years I was self employed as a home remodeler, focusing on kitchen and bathroom remodeling. I remodeled hundreds of kitchens and bathrooms. Probably 1/4 of the kitchens were refaced, and those were near the end of my remodeling career (which lasted only three more years after the book was published). Then I moved on to other things. These days I have created a unique mail order business called <a href="https://www.planetwhizbang.com/"><span style="color: red;">Planet Whizbang</span></a>. Check it out sometime.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">So, there’s some background on my cabinet refacing book and myself. Now, as for this web site, I have created it for the purpose of promoting some nifty tools for refacing that I developed way back when. You’ll find them down the right side of this page. Just click on the pictures for all the details.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">If you have any questions or comments, feel free to contact me: <a href="mailto:Herrick@PlanetWhizbang.com">Herrick@PlanetWhizbang.com</a></span></span><br />
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-41046048372573510342017-07-23T15:40:00.001-07:002017-11-28T18:59:44.337-08:00I’ve Compiled a Library of “Lost” Books and Newsletters For Professional Cabinet Refacers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6gaWVSzVXZ6uBkl6jfhxLmv0H67XvY33HHBW6TrAA7tw0UxSosIR1VcbHPTwTWXAgAp0DQNjojEck3dwF_K-YLVEPO630_7-W60RcRhZwRT5YIULec0EbJ6DsFnHMM9sudNFXb9ibIgRE/s1600/IMG_0098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="512" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6gaWVSzVXZ6uBkl6jfhxLmv0H67XvY33HHBW6TrAA7tw0UxSosIR1VcbHPTwTWXAgAp0DQNjojEck3dwF_K-YLVEPO630_7-W60RcRhZwRT5YIULec0EbJ6DsFnHMM9sudNFXb9ibIgRE/s640/IMG_0098.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It may not look like much but this USB flash drive </span><br />
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">If you are a professional cabinet refacer, or you are looking to tap into this lucrative and satisfying remodeling niche, I’ve put together a unique resource that can be a big help to you. It doesn’t look like much but this USB flash drive is packed with value. </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Here are the details...</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Back when my Taunton Press book, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561581976/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1561581976&linkCode=as2&tag=whizbook-20&linkId=fa3b79e88098346c09fceb1f62ce031d" target="_blank">Refacing Cabinets: Making an Old Kitchen New</a> was in the pipeline to be published, I focused on launching a cabinet refacing trade journal in newsletter format. The first issue of <i>Professional Kitchen Craftsman</i> (PKC) was published in July of 1997. It was subtitled, “shoptalk for cabinet refacers and conventional kitchen remodelers.”</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Four Issues of PKC Newsletter</span></td></tr>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>PKC </i>was my attempt to 1.) bring greater legitimacy to the craft of cabinet refacing by promoting high-end cabinet refacing techniques and 2.) help cabinet refacers be more successful in their business. The newsletter was very well received and had several hundred subscribers before, regrettably, I had to let it go. I published nine bimonthly issues.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The newsletter failed because I didn’t charge enough to pay it’s expenses, and I could no longer justify the time it took me to produce it. <i>PKC</i> was a labor of love, and it was really starting to go places but, on a personal level, it ended up being a big financial loss.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The good news is that the nine issues of <i>PKC</i> that I did publish were crammed with ideas, insights and reader feedback that is still as informative and useful today as it was back then. Granted, information about pricing and some product suppliers is now outdated, but the craft and business ideas are not (and actually, the outdated aspects of the newsletter have value in their historical perspective).<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">So, the first thing you will find packed into the unassuming little USB flash drive I’m offering here is pdf scans of all 85 pages<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>of <i>Professional Kitchen Craftsman</i>, issues #1 to #9. That in itself is a great resource, but there are also a couple more great resources for cabinet refacers in this flash drive.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Zia1AF11RRnVClVd0ROPoNf2QBinIGpJnFsXvCXF8ObCT_lBzIMv9NBUvRTwNwuFu8X8aYlHg912nfpqUvPwZxgkKCFLtjiGfl04z9_CcqhR42OZ8NQ52W2ibxgQhgThX4hfGolB48nB/s1600/reface+book+cover863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1212" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Zia1AF11RRnVClVd0ROPoNf2QBinIGpJnFsXvCXF8ObCT_lBzIMv9NBUvRTwNwuFu8X8aYlHg912nfpqUvPwZxgkKCFLtjiGfl04z9_CcqhR42OZ8NQ52W2ibxgQhgThX4hfGolB48nB/s640/reface+book+cover863.jpg" width="484" /></a></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>The Successful Cabinet Refacer</i> is a book I put together after I stopped publishing PKC newsletter. It is a compilation of many articles that were in PKC, but there is also a lot of content in this book that never made it into the newsletter. <i>The Successful Cabinet Refacer</i> is 74 pages in length, and a pdf scan of this book is in the flash drive I’m offering here.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I like to think of <i>The Professional Cabinet Refacer</i>, together with <i>PKC newsletter</i>, as the equivalent of a roundtable discussion for professional cabinet refacers. Or, you could look at it as an in-print national cabinet refacing convention. That’s because these unique resources contain input from 40 cabinet refacing professionals from across America. It is all about being successful at the craft and business of cabinet refacing.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The one big difference between this flash drive full of cabinet refacing insights and a national cabinet refacer’s convention is, of course, the cost. The convention will cost you a whole lot more than the $19.95 I’m charging.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKujYGsYciab7tFrDMhMj9KMIQpPNpv6jFIkrO6WyQwkzTpamLbVZsmHYugS8YFBXkQNmfcONhmzzkvq1KZ7uHuzcIgLHvybYJlOfenTCFd6nAVFU4EpbgGYMSrD6xOJSrRwl1sKoJerr7/s1600/WWR+Book864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1212" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKujYGsYciab7tFrDMhMj9KMIQpPNpv6jFIkrO6WyQwkzTpamLbVZsmHYugS8YFBXkQNmfcONhmzzkvq1KZ7uHuzcIgLHvybYJlOfenTCFd6nAVFU4EpbgGYMSrD6xOJSrRwl1sKoJerr7/s640/WWR+Book864.jpg" width="484" /></a></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">And, finally, I have packed one more valuable resource into this flash drive. It is my self-published book, <i>Winning With References: How to Sell Yourself and Your Professional Services With<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A Unique and Powerfully Persuasive Reference & Resume Handout</i>. This manual details how to do exactly what the title says. And the results are proven…</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">In issue #9 of PKC newsletter you will read the testimonial of a cabinet refacer from New Hampshire who reported that, after making a R&R handout according to my book, and putting it to use as I strategize in the book, he “closed the last 10 out of 11 sales.” Prior to that, the guy says he had a closing rate of around<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>50%.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The R&R handout, as I developed it, and explain in my book, is nothing short of marketing dynamite. If I charged $500 for the information in this 47-page book, it would still be one of the best business investments you ever made. No, I’m not exaggerating.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The bottom line with these printed resources when they were created nearly 20 years ago was to help you be a better-informed and more successful cabinet refacing professional. And today, this flash-drive-compilation of information (200+ pages) serves the same objective. I’m pleased to make all of this available to you again.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I have scanned all these documents and packaged them onto a high-quality SanDisk USB flash drive (it is not one of the el cheapo flash drives that can be bought for a couple bucks). Plug the flash drive into the USB port on your desktop computer and all this education will be right there for you. You must, of course, have a pdf reader, like Adobe Acrobat, installed on your computer.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Since these pdf files are scans of pages and not original files, you will get optimum clarity on a larger desktop screen, and if you expand the view just a bit, the clarity goes from good to just about perfect. That’s something to remember.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Availability:</b> In stock. Ready to ship.</span></span><br />
<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Price:</b> $19.95 <span style="color: red;">(postage paid)</span></span></span><br />
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-74150584516916906272017-07-23T15:39:00.007-07:002021-12-24T05:44:47.258-08:00Refacer's MUTs(Multiple Use Tools)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">These Refacer's MUTs are featured in my Taunton Press book, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561581976/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1561581976&linkCode=as2&tag=whizbook-20&linkId=fa3b79e88098346c09fceb1f62ce031d" target="_blank">Refacing Cabinets: Making an Old Kitchen New</a>. I developed them for myself when I was refacing cabinets for a living. They are the right tool for the job when it comes to veneer refacing. <b>See all the pictures below for details</b>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">After the book came out, I made and sold these for several years. In 2001 I moved on to other entrepreneurial pursuits and left my inventory of machined aluminum bodies and oak handles to languish in storage. But now, in my semi-retirement years, I'm once again making these tools.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">You need two MUTs—a right and a left—and that's how I sell them (as a pair). The handled MUTs you see above are your most expensive MUT option. That's because it takes time to make the notched dowel handles and epoxy them onto the aluminum. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">If you want to glue on your own wood handles, or just use the MUTs without a handle, scroll down to the bottom of this page and you will see a purchase button for just the two machined MUTs (no handles).</span><br />
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Availability: </b>Out of Stock</span><br />
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Price:</b></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"> </span><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;">$49.95 </span><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">(for a pair) <span style="color: red;"><b>(postage paid)</b></span></span><br />
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Beauty Shots</b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Refacer's MUTs </b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>In Action</b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">(photos from my <i>Refacing Cabinets</i> book)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgpVJPVrvjVffsFkzqMXiPVcAMlxeVEjkUNEUeb-R07qS8uvE4CQq6JpRUAR-o0FfdHE1I2WWHl89dNC4-ty12ozDLT1dZbX2Nh9OSQeV-fTlYz3I1v-auaf405-Pi-r0zQKTqtyWSZgW/s1600/Refacing+MUT+Photo+5877.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1387" data-original-width="1600" height="554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgpVJPVrvjVffsFkzqMXiPVcAMlxeVEjkUNEUeb-R07qS8uvE4CQq6JpRUAR-o0FfdHE1I2WWHl89dNC4-ty12ozDLT1dZbX2Nh9OSQeV-fTlYz3I1v-auaf405-Pi-r0zQKTqtyWSZgW/s640/Refacing+MUT+Photo+5877.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Refacer's MUTs Without Handles</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqPJXPrDrOy6EaHV1m4jk0j2lfM3l2nQ1FXkC_DpxTnmW9rZakbCDTN6G0LoRFN0lo8ZqWxwpm1d2L_kGzkFXaKsr-MbeFQ52GMclv856cDUHfXEqHOmJEgn5cj8zKgMYkln6C20eJDA4c/s1600/IMG_0582.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="957" data-original-width="1280" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqPJXPrDrOy6EaHV1m4jk0j2lfM3l2nQ1FXkC_DpxTnmW9rZakbCDTN6G0LoRFN0lo8ZqWxwpm1d2L_kGzkFXaKsr-MbeFQ52GMclv856cDUHfXEqHOmJEgn5cj8zKgMYkln6C20eJDA4c/s640/IMG_0582.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Here is the more affordable way to get yourself a pair of machined aluminum MUTs. No handles. You put your own handles on (see below for a simple handle option).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The aluminum angle used to make these has a standard dull mill finish. It may have some minor scuff marks or blotching, but nothing that an orbital hand-sander and some 120 grit paper can't make look remarkably nice (see picture below for details). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Along with the two machined MUTs, I include two MUT labels.</span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Availability: </b>Out of Stock.</span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Price: </b>$29.95 </span><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">(for a pair) <span style="color: red;">(postage paid)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgroH_rseq-owNMsPM16Zetu_rbec8GLQ_0VDkJvOhxulieqDskN9eCshnZuktd8h7uiIZ0so27q6k7JgQGfg4kwSRqq4TB_yx2q8F46kXi2o9KhLDtZpfd4rka3b3SI9PxEFrhUrac4vO4/s1600/IMG_0613.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1280" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgroH_rseq-owNMsPM16Zetu_rbec8GLQ_0VDkJvOhxulieqDskN9eCshnZuktd8h7uiIZ0so27q6k7JgQGfg4kwSRqq4TB_yx2q8F46kXi2o9KhLDtZpfd4rka3b3SI9PxEFrhUrac4vO4/s640/IMG_0613.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">On the right, you can see a machined aluminum MUT, just like you will receive if you purchase a pair of MUTs without the handles. It has the standard dull mill finish, with some minor scuffing. But you can put a beautiful new "finish" on the metal by sanding with an orbital hand sander. That is what I did with the MUT on the left. 120 or 180 grit sandpaper is ideal. This is the finish I put on the outside of the handled MUTs I sell. I do not try to put a similar finish on the inside surface. Just leave that with the mill finish.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisyghttms61WrBgR66J7ZN1oBkcPeEh-O9kZm7jL8S_66HQMB_uwOP5OsOw4Kfj4GQwSkyG3T3JgIYVrJnJ3we7gpjVwnCJhvboW0B1wvXANWbuN5IzT0AXsw_YLJioVlqbclnTqM2UZro/s1600/IMG_1250.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisyghttms61WrBgR66J7ZN1oBkcPeEh-O9kZm7jL8S_66HQMB_uwOP5OsOw4Kfj4GQwSkyG3T3JgIYVrJnJ3we7gpjVwnCJhvboW0B1wvXANWbuN5IzT0AXsw_YLJioVlqbclnTqM2UZro/s640/IMG_1250.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">A simple, but totally effective (if not totally beautiful), MUT handle can be made by sawing a notch in a square piece of pine, as you see here.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImPmlHtmmFbkY4a7KTzlLGpVySh_8GPy9z43JVujp1zVeB8QA1yTrTIyqNrH_6H0hz2KwqFHIM62voZa-HxbgBDLQeEHHAeYkofrRLFtdp_NiPFtVvmVUEqcCFkiANJkuVSd0Uxnrts9k/s1600/IMG_1251.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImPmlHtmmFbkY4a7KTzlLGpVySh_8GPy9z43JVujp1zVeB8QA1yTrTIyqNrH_6H0hz2KwqFHIM62voZa-HxbgBDLQeEHHAeYkofrRLFtdp_NiPFtVvmVUEqcCFkiANJkuVSd0Uxnrts9k/s640/IMG_1251.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">Chop the handles to length. You can use a router to round the edges, or carve them round with a knife. I glue handles on with <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Z3C3AG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001Z3C3AG&linkCode=as2&tag=whizbook-20&linkId=7812f2a2bacd16c470bff4e6de863863" target="_blank">Gorilla Epoxy</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=whizbook-20&l=am2&o=1&a=B001Z3C3AG" style="border: none; margin: 0px;" width="1" />. To get the neatest job, tape off around the handles before glueing them on. Trim around the perimeter of the handles with a sharp knife point when the glue is semi-hardened.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghTlY_ybp6WQQ4eNrh7iPbcYl8KL-LkVpBcyH1JpcgFMzuUObIV_RMSExfIUcKbU7uUVLTfI4tfB9e7agfHgRWigLB8ZRP_yYzAREfhRin3ib7YCkLWx4QbRiO9WX_SAKyhPh4Ytm-f9_g/s1600/IMG_0611.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="812" data-original-width="1280" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghTlY_ybp6WQQ4eNrh7iPbcYl8KL-LkVpBcyH1JpcgFMzuUObIV_RMSExfIUcKbU7uUVLTfI4tfB9e7agfHgRWigLB8ZRP_yYzAREfhRin3ib7YCkLWx4QbRiO9WX_SAKyhPh4Ytm-f9_g/s640/IMG_0611.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;">Or, if you want a real woodworking challenge, you can cut a 1-1/4" dowel into 3" sections, round the ends, and then cut a notch like you see here. That's how I make the handles for the MUTs I sell. I cut the notches on my table saw. How I do it is a trade secret. ;-) </span></td></tr>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>The Rockler </b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Veneer Trimming Tool</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVi_r9Fm0tiBvl4RAL8NFr4gMGTOWWi9UVLSwOXVuyT-OOs0JDhhMUlLdn2gldz8KfH4qU7Q4V6tLsmtaqEBDtY-MPobYV0W9aWYCDE6OkjlOJUYkPnyTZQQzGSU59F_Qyu4PVaYZ3Z0Cz/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-11-28+at+10.49.35+AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1462" data-original-width="1466" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVi_r9Fm0tiBvl4RAL8NFr4gMGTOWWi9UVLSwOXVuyT-OOs0JDhhMUlLdn2gldz8KfH4qU7Q4V6tLsmtaqEBDtY-MPobYV0W9aWYCDE6OkjlOJUYkPnyTZQQzGSU59F_Qyu4PVaYZ3Z0Cz/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-11-28+at+10.49.35+AM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Have you seen Rockler's veneer trimming guide that they sell for cabinet refacing? It looks like two of my Refacer's MUTs in one tool, and that's exactly what it is. They took this idea from my MUTs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The nice thing about the Rockler company is that they contacted me before they brought this idea to market. Told me of their intentions, and they offered to pay me a small amount for borrowing from my idea.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">They didn't have to pay me a cent. I didn't have a patent on the idea. So, the fact that they contacted me about it makes me think very highly of Rockler. Very highly, indeed.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">In case you're wondering, they asked me how much I might want. I said $1,000. They eventually agreed to that. We have an official document that allows only them to have any rights to my MUT idea, and I retain the right to make and sell my own version of the MUTs, as I am doing here.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">What do I think of the Rockler tool? I think the price is right and it will probably work just fine (I've never actually used it) for a DIY homeowner refacing project.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">On the other hand, I have been told that my MUTs with the handles are more convenient to use, and they are a more sturdy tool.</span><br />
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-2611926706403625382017-07-23T15:39:00.002-07:002017-11-28T14:16:44.925-08:00Veneer Slick 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">(click on pictures to see closer views)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">In my Refacing Cabinets book I show a veneer smoothing tool that I made. I named it the Veneer Slick (see below). It was a useful tool, but shortly after the book was published I came up with a better idea. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The Veneer Slick II has the same HDPE material for a smoothing blade, but with the longer handle (8.5") it allows for two-handed smoothing leverage. Which is to say, you can get more concentrated pressure on the veneer with less effort. And that's not all...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The end of the handle is beveled, with aluminum at the tip. This bevel is ideal for smoothing strips of veneer into tight corners, as is done when veneer-wrapping cabinet face frames. Here's a picture of the beveled handle end...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The aluminum side of the tool is bonded to the wood (oak) with Gorilla epoxy. The handle is then reinforced with low-profile screw posts. Two screw posts secure the HDPE blade.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The 3-1/4" HDPE blade can be "renewed" with a couple swipes from a sharp block plane. The aluminum end (1.5" wide) can be touched up with a small file.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">This is a downright handy tool.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Availability:</b> In stock. Ready to ship.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Price:</b> $34.95 <span style="color: red;">(postage paid)</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZKYc9igJV0YHyb_lVfYVAxt4PU4mvr-cWP45B4SXWV2yO5tmr1TyTWxWTUew-YQTILpHNwXUcXVwhebyOErj_kaJcpf_B9QzwDGSoswi08WlkFy9v6XjMkzgS80p1zZmg-kSWv9VV2lj/s1600/IMG_0541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="991" data-original-width="1280" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZKYc9igJV0YHyb_lVfYVAxt4PU4mvr-cWP45B4SXWV2yO5tmr1TyTWxWTUew-YQTILpHNwXUcXVwhebyOErj_kaJcpf_B9QzwDGSoswi08WlkFy9v6XjMkzgS80p1zZmg-kSWv9VV2lj/s640/IMG_0541.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-57235092965014471972017-07-23T15:38:00.020-07:002024-02-07T05:01:07.202-08:00The WhizbangChisel Sharpening Jig<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjWmoHmmymDFvcUThhTI1IYmi9KHIO1l0AXUcGoxsh1DgGsaOqjLik1fLb415Pg8_r79QM1dP-gGFzxlwJ_wxg6zX-qCAZVbQqb7Lrrxbyhx7hdWr4ZgZNG1ljO-M_-sns_FDnjg31jdn_/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-11-23+at+8.27.46+AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="911" data-original-width="1600" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjWmoHmmymDFvcUThhTI1IYmi9KHIO1l0AXUcGoxsh1DgGsaOqjLik1fLb415Pg8_r79QM1dP-gGFzxlwJ_wxg6zX-qCAZVbQqb7Lrrxbyhx7hdWr4ZgZNG1ljO-M_-sns_FDnjg31jdn_/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-11-23+at+8.27.46+AM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Chisel sharpening just went from being a lot of fuss and bother to no big deal. All you need is a basic belt sander and a <i>Whizbang</i> chisel sharpening jig. The whole process is explained in <a href="https://youtu.be/4uei2HYv9RA">My YouTube Movie</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Or, <a href="http://cabinetrefacingtools.blogspot.com/2017/07/go-to-web-view-on-your-mobile-phone-7.html">Click Here</a> for a quick overview, with screen shots from the movie.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I've been using this jig and my unique procedure for grinding, honing and stropping chisels since 1993. Now I'm bringing the idea to the rest of the world via the internet. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Once you understand how remarkably simple and effective this chisel sharpening idea is, you'll want a Whizbang chisel sharpening jig of your own. </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">And I'm going to help you get one. Here are 3 options... </span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Option #1</b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Make Your Own Jig</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I've made enough of these amazing little jigs to know the best way to get the job done. With that in mind, I have assembled an inexpensive 14-page specifications and instructions package. It has 49 step-by-step photos. All the how-to details are clearly explained.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">This information is in a downloadable pdf format. Trust me when I tell you that this information package is worth the investment. I put a lot of hours into producing it. You won't be disappointed.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP38-VOzl_xBAn90A63InH-2MtSUxlp5RNRNEeNsg075ZXElulgyhnHiZdTPh-kl4xxuzikmQIGoFaqDWIa8P8-3jnDIYrwnq072nUZAzgnBQarWWBTMjeeWazbx8fF7Lotg9_IIFdAlxE/s1600/Chisel+Cover.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1568" data-original-width="1241" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP38-VOzl_xBAn90A63InH-2MtSUxlp5RNRNEeNsg075ZXElulgyhnHiZdTPh-kl4xxuzikmQIGoFaqDWIa8P8-3jnDIYrwnq072nUZAzgnBQarWWBTMjeeWazbx8fF7Lotg9_IIFdAlxE/s640/Chisel+Cover.jpg" width="506" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Click the order button below to get this pdf tutorial. After you make the purchase, a pdf download link will automatically be e-mailed to you. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">IMPORTANT: You are <i>not</i> purchasing a paper hard-copy of these specifications. You are purchasing an electronic file that you download to your computer. You can then view it on your computer, and print a copy if you like.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">If you have any problems with the download, contact me directly: <a href="mailto:Herrick@PlanetWhizbang.com">Herrick@PlanetWhizbang.com</a></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Availability:</b> In stock. Ready to ship.</span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>PDF Price:</b> <strike>$4.99</strike> <b><span style="color: red;">On sale for only $3.99</span></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://www.e-junkie.com/ecom/gb.php?c=single&cl=222218&i=1562776" target="ejejcsingle"><img alt="Buy Now" border="0" src="https://www.e-junkie.com/ej/x-click-butcc.gif" /></a>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Option #2</b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Complete Wood & Metal Parts Kit</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh71OUb41B4T5SXes28QNyH_P6LFGw2BGQAPwMF0Pt2G5VBO4fWHjO4i_ew4I7nlscBnWtSZGVNuvGA5GDfkcmzRMga6kB6P1J_AGsH7rkIxx_J0dkSRsYxvLtZX37SERnov7xIMWDEnt2/s1600/IMG_6912.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1503" data-original-width="1600" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh71OUb41B4T5SXes28QNyH_P6LFGw2BGQAPwMF0Pt2G5VBO4fWHjO4i_ew4I7nlscBnWtSZGVNuvGA5GDfkcmzRMga6kB6P1J_AGsH7rkIxx_J0dkSRsYxvLtZX37SERnov7xIMWDEnt2/s640/IMG_6912.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: x-large;"><span>This kit option, as pictured, includes all the parts you need to make your own sharpening jig. T</span><span>he jig body (made of red oak) is cut to size, and the 25-degree angle has been cut on one end. The bottom skis are also cut to size, and the holes in the aluminum plate have been drilled.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Important Note:</b> The PDF tutorial for making the chisel jig (Option #1 above) is NOT included with this parts kit. While the instructions are not a necessity, they will make assembly of this kit <i>a whole lot easier</i>.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b>Another Important Note:</b><span style="color: red;"> </span></span><span style="color: red;">I no longer ship this item to <span style="color: red;">Canada,</span> or any other foreign country.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Availability: <b>Temporarily Out Of Stock as of 2/7/24. The "Add to Cart" button will be put back when these are available.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Price: $16.95 <span style="color: red;">(Plus $7.00 for shipping)</span></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Option #3</b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Buy An Already-Made Jig</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOImbagAB2BYfd0mbGdpMEd3QRew8Q-ICYbcctbUsHjegQQPLl_8DpB57RsU4bWDx0C8fd42q5_SWK1MIEPD29fQIre5o7JZ2iNATDHwLD6JZXKYr7ZycDcxyrIPIHgARmMh8QnOV7wm9C/s1600/IMG_2246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1280" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOImbagAB2BYfd0mbGdpMEd3QRew8Q-ICYbcctbUsHjegQQPLl_8DpB57RsU4bWDx0C8fd42q5_SWK1MIEPD29fQIre5o7JZ2iNATDHwLD6JZXKYr7ZycDcxyrIPIHgARmMh8QnOV7wm9C/s640/IMG_2246.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">It really doesn't get any easier than this. I make these little beauties (pictured above) in my home workshop. They are ready to go to work right out of the box. And this tool should last you a lifetime (The first jig I made, and have used since 1993, still works just fine).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Make sure you watch <a href="https://youtu.be/4uei2HYv9RA">my 20-minute YouTube tutorial</a> so you know exactly how to put this jig to good use. </span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Availability:</b> <b style="color: red;">Out of Stock. </b></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;">As of January 2020 I can not make enough of these to fill the demand, and I really don't have the time or machinery to produce them on the scale needed. I have sent a jig sample to a tool manufacturer (FastCap) to see if they would be interested in making these jigs out of plastic and selling them. No response. I'm open to suggestions from someone who might know of another company that would be interested in taking this idea to a larger audience (<a href="mailto:Herrick@PlanetWhizbang.com">Herrick@PlanetWhizbang.com</a>). Until then, the best I can do is provide the specifications and parts kits (above).</span></span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>USA Price:</b> </span></div>
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<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: x-large;">$36.95 (Postage Paid)</span></div>
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-91001111956163369032017-07-23T15:38:00.003-07:002017-07-23T15:44:15.203-07:00Drawer Swords<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Drawer Swords will be coming to this web page someday soon.</div>
Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-67720169117828077352017-07-23T15:35:00.004-07:002017-11-30T07:25:41.411-08:00Here's A Quick OverviewOf How To Use MyWhizbang Chisel Sharpening Jig<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">First, we need a dull chisel, like you can see above. That's me (Herrick Kimball) in the YouTube movie, <a href="https://youtu.be/4uei2HYv9RA">My Whizbang Chisel Sharpening Jig</a>, presenting a well-dulled, 1" wide, Stanley chisel. I purchased it for 75-cents at a yard sale. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">By the way, all the pictures on this page are screen shots from the movie. If you like this idea, make sure you watch the movie. It's important.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The picture above shows how the chisel is clamped in the jig. With the assembly on a flat surface, the blade is touching down, while the front of the jig is raised up ever so slightly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">By the way, this jig is designed to grind a 25° bevel on the chisel, and it will also sharpen block plane blades.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">In this next picture you can see the chisel being sharpened on an old belt sander, which is exactly what it is designed to do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">In the picture above, you can grasp the remarkably simple but amazingly effective concept of <i>Whizbang</i> chisel sharpening.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">A sanding belt is cut to 1-1/2" wide and installed on the sander. I recommend a zirconia alumina sanding belt for this. Common aluminum oxide belts will also do the job, but they dull much more quickly than zirconia alumina.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The jig-with-chisel is held flat on the platen of the sander while the belt runs underneath. There are wood skis on the underside of the jig. So, the jig straddles the belt. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">As noted in the picture, belt rotation and jig orientation is important. You want the belt running under the jig and into the chisel blade. This is safer than having the belt contact the point of the blade first. And speaking of safety...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Your belt sander is not going to explode when you grind a metal chisel blade. But those hot sparks may certainly find purchase on a bit of sawdust residue and smolder there before eventually flaming up. It's nothing to panic about. Just be aware of the possibility, and follow the common sense safety precautions on the label.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">This next picture shows the desired result when grinding a chisel edge...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Once you have a wire edge all the way across the edge of the blade, it is time to stop grinding and move on to honing...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">In the above picture I have replaced the zirconia alumina sanding belt with a worn out 180-grit aluminum oxide belt, and I am charging the belt with a bar of Veritas Green honing compound. The chisel remains as it was in the jig. Then hone the blade in the same manner that I ground the angle...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The blade is honed until the wire edge is gone, or mostly gone, as you can see in the picture above. The precise angle is perfectly retained.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Next, the blade is stropped...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I strop the blade on cardboard. Any clean, flat piece of cardboard that is in reach will work. Even the outside of a cardboard box.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Then, I test the blade for sharpness...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">The best way I know to test the sharpness of a chisel blade is to hold it at an angle on the nail of my thumb, as you can see above. A sharp blade will "bite" ever so slightly into the nail surface and not slide off. A <i>very</i> sharp blade will hold its bite and not slide off the nail even at a very low angle. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">You can achieve this kind of edge on a chisel in a couple of minutes, every single time. If the chisel is just a bit dull, and the edge is not damaged, you can renew it in a fast minute by simply honing and stropping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">A sharp chisel is a joy to use, and so is a sharp block plane...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Block plane blades up to 2-5/8" wide can be sharpened in the Whizbang jig just as easily as chisel blades.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Is This Jig </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>The Right Tool For You?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Well, it might not be. If you are a fine woodworker with expensive, high-quality bench chisels (<a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4099/bevel-edge-chisels">like these from Lie-Nielsen</a>) I do not recommend this sharpening method. Not at all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">However, if you work in the trades, and your chisels typically take a real beating, you are exactly the person who can benefit from this idea. The fact is, I developed this sharpening concept when I made my living as a carpenter and home remodeler. My chisels took a real beating. I needed a way to get a sharp working edge <i>fast</i>, right on the job site, without a lot of fuss and hassle. This jig, and the process I have just explained, will do that!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Now, having said that, I want to also make it clear that common, inexpensive chisels, like the 75-cent Stanley shown above, can be just as practical for most fine woodworking projects as a $55 Lie-Nielsen chisel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://cabinetrefacingtools.blogspot.com/2017/07/a-whizbang-chisel-sharpener.html">Click Here</a> for specifications, hardware parts kits, and already-made <i>Whizbang </i>chisel sharpening jigs.</span></div>
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1457043099627460661.post-42326422342997142702017-07-23T15:35:00.000-07:002017-11-29T06:00:34.328-08:00Cabinet Refacing How-To<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>American How-To</i> magazine has not been published for many years. It met with mixed reviews in its day, but I can tell you they treated me good back in 1998 when they paid my expenses to fly out to Minnetonka, Minnesota and reface a kitchen for the magazine article that follows.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I wish I could remember the Managing Editor's name. The guy was a class act. Very professional and friendly. And he paid me well for the gig. The only problem was that I arrived in Minnetonka with one of the most excruciating headaches of my life. It was bad. I don't travel well.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">Fortunately, I was feeling better the next day when, with several other editors at the magazine, we started refacing the kitchen and taking photos. We put in one big day. I flew home the next, while they finished up the project. They were all great guys.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">This article was heavily edited to cut it down to size and make it conform to the voice of that particular publication. But the pictures are good and it provides an excellent overview of my technique for veneer-wrapping cabinet face frames.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">I could find no trace of <i>American How-To </i>magazine on the internet, so I was not able to ask permission to republish this here. I'm just assuming that it will be okay to do so.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-large;">If you are viewing on a PC, just click on the pictures to see enlarged (readable) pages.
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Herrick Kimballhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17116051416696885647noreply@blogger.com